In Search of Uncrowded Greek Isles

Murielle Blanchard
October 9, 2024

I recently came back from a fact-finding trip to three Greek Cyclades islands where I looked for authentic villages, churches, and monasteries which are easy to reach by ferry and no cruise ships.

Off the Beaten Path in Greece

Greeks Isles are not all about Santorini, Mykonos and all the islands where the cruise ships dock. I purposefully selected the islands of Serifos, Sifnos and, Milos due to their less-trafficked natures. I traveled for 10 days using ferries to hop on from one island to the next and went hiking most of the days, which I thoroughly enjoyed. When hiking in Greece, you can discover white villages and monasteries with white and blue domes, and you get to stop on sandy beaches and swim in the blue waters of small coves. These islands are full of contrasts. Dry mountains rub shoulders with green valleys, monasteries overlook fine sandy beaches. I discovered that hiking here gives you the joy of smelling aromatic herbs and listening to cicadas, your everyday companions.

Ferry from Piraeus to Serifos: 2 hours

Serifos, the island of Perseus, dominated by its capital, Chora, is one of the most characteristic and beautiful villages in the Cyclades Islands.

Chora, the capital of the island, clings to its rocky peak, offers sublime panoramas from its summit where some remains of fortifications still stand.

The highlight of the hike is the visit to the fortified monastery of the Taxiarchs where the austerity of the surrounding walls gives way to the peaceful and flowery garden inside. Imbued with real serenity, this place is still inhabited by the last monk Makarios Kotsikos who entered in 1958.

Remains of cultivated terraces, old dovecotes, chapels which punctuate the landscape, a few sleepy hamlets and the blue of the Aegean Sea which permanently blocks the horizon, this is what this beautiful hike has to offer.

Ferry from Serifos to Sifnos: 20 minutes

I spent 3 nights there in Kamares with its beautiful beach. Sifnos is known for its traditional pottery and is reputed as a foodie island. It owes its foodie reputation to its most famous descendant, Nicholas Tselementes, who wrote the first Greek cookbook in 1910. Chickpea croquettes and stewed capers are tavernas staples. Traditional dishes are slow roasted in a wood fired oven.

The Hike from Apolonia to Karmares offers stunning views of Kamares Bay and allows you to discover the old mining sites on the plateau, at the foot of Mount Profitis Elias, the highest point of the island (680m). The vegetation changes between the coastline, which is rather arid, and the interior of the island, which is agricultural and more wooded. In the distance, on the ridge, you see the white line of the three villages: Artemonas, Apollonia and Katavati where the domes of the churches stand out. I took the bus to reach the village of Appolonia. From the highest point of the island and its monastery you have a sublime panorama over a large part of the Cyclades.

I made my way down to the protected bay of Vathy through maquis and olive tree terraces via beautiful trails facing the islands of Milos, Kimolos and the small uninhabited island of Poliegos. All in all, Sifnos offers the right balance of low-key luxury and unspoiled authenticity.

Ferry from Sifnos to Milos: 45 minutes

The highlight of this particular hike is the one-of-a-kind dazzling white volcanic tuff coastline plunging into the deep blue of the Aegean Sea. Erosion has shaped some small vaults, miniature coves, and spectacular arches. It is a photogenic and dramatic coastline.

Everyone knows the Venus de Milos sculpture which has stood in the Louvre Museum since the 19th century. Until recently very few people had heard of the island of Milos but little by little Milos is being discovered. The trail along the coastline offers white cliffs, bottle green swimming holes, and tiny houses wedged between rock and sea. The landscape was shaped by minerals that have long been a source of wealth, obsidian, alum, barite, and sulfur.

Ferry from Kimonos back to Piraeus: 3 Hours 20 Minutes

What a wonderful adventure! Staying a few nights on each island gives really you a chance to embrace the local life and hiking is the best slow, blissful, simple way to enjoy the beauty.

Murielle Blanchard

I have been a travel consultant for more than 35 years, and during that time I have designed customized itineraries for clients all over the world. I have traveled widely myself and have discovered the most interesting hotels, lodges, and restaurants. I would be delighted to offer you the benefit of my unique travel background. Whether your next holiday involves family, a romantic getaway, adventure, luxury, or relaxation, I have ideas, contacts, and a wealth of experience to place at your disposal.

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